Tim Baker

Hi, my name is Tim Baker and I'm a writer who specialises in surfing history and culture. And since July 2015 I've been learning to live with and manage a cancer diagnosis. You may know me from best-selling surfing books Bustin' Down The Door, Occy, Surf For Your Life (with Mick Fanning), High Surf, Surfari, and Century of Surf. On July 7, 2015, I was diagnosed with stage four prostate cancer, at age 50, which has transformed my life in ways I could never have foreseen, some of it good, some of it profoundly shitty. But I'm still here, writing and surfing, being a husband and father, meditating like a monk, following a mainly plant-based diet, learning to live with this thing hanging over my head like the fricken' Sword of Damocles. It's moved me to write about more than surfing - my health journey, meditation, relationships. I'll be posting stuff from my surfing archives over the past 30 years, reflections on the current state of surfing, as well as the things that help me stay healthy and strong and motivated in the face of this challenge. I hope it will help and inspire others while allowing me to continue to write and support my family. In any given week I'll aim to give you the opportunity to laugh, cry, think, feel and learn. Let me know if there are any topics you'd like me to tackle or anything you'd like me to pull out from my back catalogue.