I designed this outfit for an oil painting (as you can see, yet unfinished). It was created to be made as separates and I've been itching to build this for my mannequin. I am hoping to make it stylish enough to be used for advertising purposes for the coming year. It will consist of many pieces. I will not be demonstrating the smock or the ruff. There are many talented linen workers out there with their own videos and blogs...visit them and give them some love. We will be making the layers as follows:
--Under-petticoat...If you've been with us from the beginning, this is the wrap-skirt petticoat that we demonstrated in the very first Modern Maker Videos. If you're new, you can go back and watch the Wrap-skirt series and catch up. These videos will stay here for you to view.
--Stays...These will be a simple center back opening style, similar to the "Pfalzgräfin" bodies.
--Petticoat This petticoat will be made of stiff material, we will purposely use tucks, hem stiffeners and LOTS of fullness to make them stand out, nice and big.
--Hip Roll...This will be made with a "wedge" construction, cut from scraps. Most definitely not a big, single-piece crescent shape that is often used by costumers.
--Over skirt...It will be made of wool flannel. We will add a layer at the top to give more fullness to the gathers and we will cut it in a way that allows me to demonstrate a more organic method of leveling the hem and deciding where the fullness goes.
--Jacket...This will be made using Anduxar's skirted peplum jacket cut. It has small, slightly v-neck opening and is closed with hooks and eyes down the front. The reason we make this piece last is to show what can happen if a garment is made without accounting for all of the layers beneath it. I will be making the pattern according to the proportions but, I will make a mock-up and fit it to the mannequin and show JUST how much shorter the body of the jacket must be for it to hang well and not wrinkle up at the waist. Skirts take up more space than just the thickness of waistband layers around the waist, they also have depth and therefore, the waist level of the jacket must get higher. Its the nature of the beast.
I'm very excited about this series of videos. It will be long, but we should get several very good short series out of it.
This is a project which is meant to take our work here at The Modern Maker to the NEXT LEVEL. I hope you will join me on the journey!