Non ionic "true" colloidal silver guide

Ok, so here I'll try to explain the in depth method of producing Non ionic (true) colloidal silver.

Necessary materials

· 4 Chinese plastic chop sticks

· Some rubber bands

· 4x Glass jars (at least 1 Liter)

· Felt Marker pen

· Stove

· Oven (not essential)

· Baking soda

· caramel

· AC/DC power adaptor 12V, 5Amps or less

· Electronic breadboard

· LM3171 Voltage regulator

· 1W 100Ohm resistor

· Connector wires for the breadboard

· 2x 1m long wires with beaks (alternatively you can use shorter wires connected with to each other beaks)

· Wire cutter or hobby knife

· Multimeter

· Litmus paper 7-14pH

· Coffee filters (in case you get plate out and need to filter)

· Non metallic funnel preferable glass (plastic can be used, better if the ones for chemistry)

· Distilled water (better) or ion traded water (cheaper). ***Don’t use normal water.

· Non metallic measuring spoon (baking or chemistry)

· Measuring cup for chemistry/baking showing 5 or 10mL increments

· Glass dropper with rubber bulb

· Fine sandpaper

Alternative upgrades

§ Magnetic stirrer or hotplate stirrer

§ Micro sensitive multimeter for measuring the low amp.

1. Particle size.

Reason for the 10-20 nm range is because any larger and the particles are inefficient, any smaller and you won't be able to know how much or if any silver is diluted in the solution, which can be hard for a beginner to deal with. Above 50nm is inefficient as medicine and might also turn the skin blue if consuming to much.

The color of the solution when producing will start to get a yellow tint when hitting the 10nm size, 

One of the main ways to control the size in this procedure is how much light is present, if doing the whole process in a dark room it is fully possible to get particles less than 10nm which will look like clear water. Meanwhile having a deeper and deeper yellow tint the bigger the particle size. When around 50nm it will be orange/brown. This is before reduction when the silver is still ionized.

After reduction the color will change drastically to a much fuller brownish color almost black when around 80nm sized and silvery black when above 100nm.

Sometimes the silvery black color might stick to the inner surface of the glass container, so don’t be fooled and think you got to big particles. Instead pour some into a glass and look at it. 

2. The way to get non ionic silver:

The easiest and most stabile method is by using 2 chemical compounds, one to oxidize (electrolyte) and another to reduce the silver (reducing agent). 

The easiest electrolyte is most likely washing soda - sodium carbonate - Na2CO3

The reducing agent to go with it is sugar, either sucrose/fructose or glucose, any mix of it will do but just needs around 6 times more volume in the mixture. So 1 spoonful of washing soda to 6 spoonfuls of sugarstuff. I recommend using pure caramel because of the high amount of sucrose/fructose.

Even if using bought caramel with vanilla it doesn’t hurt the solution, and it tastes nice.

You cannot put too much sugar in the solution, it will just become sweeter so don’t be afraid you put too much.

2.b The making of washing soda(electrolyte)

An easy to spot difference between baking soda and washing soda, is the grainy texture of the washing soda compared to the fine powdery texture of the baking soda.

Easiest way, Buy some pure baking soda(not baking powder). Put it in a ceramic container/cup/bowl/plate. Put it in the oven and increase the heat slowly up till at least 130C/255F but no problem if more. When you can smell the baking smell from the baking soda it means it’s changing into washing soda. Let it heat up until you are sure there are no more water in it and it has completely changed into washing soda which is a grainy mixture.

Alternative method, put a teacup with a thin layer of baking soda into a pot, increase the heat slowly until all the water is boiled away and you smell the soda changing, check to see if the texture is grainy.

This way is harder to produce a good amount of washing soda but can be used if an oven is not available.

Personally I use a toaster oven because making it in a pot is time consuming and a toaster oven is small enough to keep around.

3. the silver

Needs to be clean, 999 or 9999 purity, which stands for 99.9% and 99.99%.

The wire needs to be a certain thickness at least 12 gauge (diameter of 0. 0.081 inch or 2.06 mm) in order to not break apart when doing the process as well as when cleaning it after use.

I would suggest 8 or 10 gauge. Personally I use saved off bars which are thicker but I would have preferred smooth rods.

4. the electronics

The process will only function if using DC (Direct Current)power.

The voltage we need can be anywhere from between 7 to around 15 volts. The difference here is the speed the silver is released and chance of plate out. Personally the best outcome I have had is with about 10V, if it’s high the silver will plate out, making big lumps of silver in the water that then needs to be filtered, controlling the size of the particles if plate out happens are really hard and are usually bigger than wanted.

The amperage we need is low and if set lower might make the process take a very long time and with particles we can’t see. My personal preference is 10-5mA (0.01-0.005Amps) 

I’ve found the settings with 10Volts and 5mAmps giving a good smooth low particle size solution. That doesn’t take more than a couple of hours.

The power outlet needs to be connected with an AC/DC adaptor either 12V or one for computer usually 18.5V 3.5A but anything can be used as long as it is at least 12V and maximum 5A (minimum is the 5mA we need, while the maximum is to not burn the voltage regulator).

The circuit itself I choose to keep on an electronic breadboard, which easily connects the amp controller and resistor with small electronic wires.

The amp controller I choose in my setup is a voltage regulator wired to be an Amp regulator, called LM3171 which can take 5Amps.

To control the Amperage, a resistor is put between the middle leg where one connection is a feedback loop back to the third leg, that way the output of the middle leg will be dependent on the size of the resistor.

I used a 100 Ohm 1W resistor. (1W is for the resistor to not burn, typical size is 0.5W which might work but if using a computer adaptor/higher power input it might burn so going with 1W is the safe choice)

The reason there is a 2V drop in the circuit is because of the voltage regulator. 12V -> 10V

If using a bigger adaptor than 12V extra resistors can be put in front of the voltage regulator to drop it down to 12V in order to not make plateout.

Here it is paramount that a higher Watt resistor is being used since the power before being put through the regulator is much higher.

For the setup connecting the circuit with the silver, 4 beaks is needed as well as standard copper wire 2x1meter with beaks in each end in 2 different colors (red and black for instance).

The Circuit board

1. Put in your voltage regulator with the back to the + side on 3 different connector lines.

2. Connect the first pin (top) to an electronic wire as an input node or to the + plus connected to an electronic wire used as input node.

3. Connect the second pin to the 100 Ohm resistor + side

4. Make a dual connection with the – side of the 100 Ohm resistor to the third pin using an electronic wire and an electronic wire as an output node for the + beak.

5. Connect a small electronic wire to the – side that will also be used as input node from the – beak.

6. Connect the + wire from the adaptor to the + side of the circuit.

7. Connect the – wire from the adaptor to the – side of the circuit.


Alternatively a battery can be used which works a bit different, a major problem is batteries running out of power before finishing the job, at the end of the battery life the voltage change. Typically they last about 1.5 hours which usually isn’t enough.

The typical Amperage is 500mA which is a bit high meanwhile the voltage is typically a bit lower than 9V for a standard AA or AAA battery which is a bit low. A 12V battery might be used. 

The overall problem is the inconsistency of the resulting solution. It’s possible to do but not recommended.

With a good electronic circuit it is possible to make a fairly consistent product if also using a timer, however the battery will still run out which for me personally I got tired of and went with the steady power supply.

5. The mixture

Prepping the electrolyte

We aim for a solution with 8-8.5 pH. For this we need to make a solution that can easily be poured to make our silver meanwhile having a fairly accurate pH.

Take a glass jar and mark it with a marker, sodium carbonate - Na2CO3 10ml/liter(H20)

Measure up 1 liter of distilled water, put it in the jar. Put a marker on the 1 liter mark

Measure up 1cl (a small spoonful) of washing soda. Put it in the water In the jar. 1cl=10ml. Stir

Test the pH with the litmus paper (probably high around 13)

Mark the second jar like the first with a 1 liter mark, and write Na2CO3 0.1ml/liter(H20)

Take a second jar and fill it with almost 1 liter distilled water.

Take out 1cl water from the first jar and put it in the second. Stir

Measure the pH, (probably still high around 10)

To get a pH of 8 we would need for 1 liter water, 10cl of pH 9 solution or 10ml pH 10 solution or 1mL pH 11 solution. The pH scale is logarithmic ^10 is why. 

Just get it about right, no need for extreme accuracy but it does need to be above 7 and below 10 preferable around 8-8.5 (This is for consumption and spraying in the eyes etc after all so high pH above 9 should be avoided, if too close to 7 maybe the reduction will not work so keep it a fair amount above 7). and don't forget, whatever works for you.

The water

Pour an adequate amount of your distilled water into the third glass jar.

Pour in your electrolyte to get the water to the wanted pH level (8-8.5).

Put a lid on the jar until the setup is complete and ready to go.

Prepping the setup

***Important*** Have a low light setting, avoid UV rays (daylight) at all costs). This is only to be made in a dark/low light setting with zero UV. A dark room for old time photography is preferable.

So whether you have a room with no windows (garage or what not) or just wait till after dusk is entirely up to you.

1. Prepare the Silver wire by either bending them so they can hang on the side of the jar or by taking the plastic chop sticks and rubber bands to make them hang down into the water.

2. Clasp the beaks onto the silver wire. One for + side the other for -.

3. Connect the other end of the beaks to the correct (+ and -) wire out/inlets from the circuit board.

4. Rinse the silver wire and wash them a few times with distilled water.

5. Put the silver wire into the water with electrolyte.

6. Connect your adaptor to the power socket.   

Then test your connection with the multimeter, 20V setting is good. You can also test the amps which on a normal multimeter should shift between 0 and 1 on the lowest setting. It should show around 10-11V. stay above 8V.

7. Wait until you see one silver rod turn dark black and the other turn white.

8. Switch circuit direction by disconnecting the + and minus side on the circuit board then reconnect the beaks with + to - and - to +. (this will ensure you don’t get as much plate out or might even avoid it)

9. Wait until you see a yellow tint, stronger color means larger particles and higher PPM. We want small particles and near 20ppm optimally. So a slight yellow tint is fine after 1.5-2 hours.

10. Filter/pour your solution into another Jar to avoid any big particles.

11. Water bath the solution to get it to at least 80o C/176o F.

12. Pour in the caramel/sugarstuff and wait for it to stabilize color.

13. Cool your solution either in the fridge or at room temperature.

14. Pour your solution into a closed container like a plastic bottle.

15. Rinse the silver wire by wiping them down with fine sandpaper. 

16. Drink it, use it as mouth wash, put it on wounds, spray your face, mix it with juice or whatever and feel the benefit.