Cosplay Fabrics was kind enough to sponsor the fabrics for me, I'd been wanting to play with some of their non-stretch fabrics for a while and didn't have an appropriate project. Besides a little textured faux leather, and plain linen as backing to lightweight pieces, all the fabric came from the Yaya Han collection.
Here's the end result
Thanks to Houkakyou for pics!
I used the Desert Voile for this, because it had to be a lot of layers but not add significant bulk to the costume. I also wanted it to be machine embroidered, which isn't usually something you do to voile - it puckers a lo and comes out poorly. This surprisingly held up very well, I used double layers of dissolvable interfacing and it came out pretty clean. Chalk that up to details you will literally never see while worn. The script is the Sith code, run through the Cheunh translator and written in the Aurebesh font.
I'm really fond of this garment; the 'tabard' piece is a separate garment that snaps on beneath the lapels-turned-cape pieces in the back. I fit the entire Sith code in the embroidery starting on the tabard, then to the back pieces, and then the coat tails in the front - start at the wearer's left and read while circling.
The tabard is the Heavy Gauze fabric, I used a tear-away and dissolvable interfacing combo to keep this stabilized while on the embroidery machine to compensate for the distortion of such a loose weave fabric. It's backed with a black linen for stability while wearing, and I hid a little bonus embroidery on the underside.
The tabard folds over to lie flat across the back of the shoulders and compensate for the deep V of the coat itself to make it stay more snuggly fitted. So I embroidered the Chiss Ascendancy logo on the flip side; sadly my hair covers this so you'll hardly ever see how cool the back is!
Since I was working with the Desert Robe and Heavy Gauze fabric and needed something with weight to it to keep the whole garment stable, I ended up stealing from my future Kylo Ren pile and used a bit of the Apprentice Weave for the two back panels to hold it all together.
I wanted the costume to look as though I wear wearing a sci-fi bodysuit underneath the flowing Sith robes, so I used the Super Hex and Ultrapreme for the shirt and pants. Super Hex is great for sci-fi stuff, but since it's only a 2-way stretch and I had non-stretch quilted panels I augmented with the 4-way stretch Ultrapreme panels wrapping around the legs to add more range of motion. These turned out super comfortable.
I quilted the Super Hex with a thick foam interfacing, backed with a light cotton.
The shirt only has sleeves and a bit of underarm attached to a cotton crop top so I can stay cool. I used the same quilting technique on diamond patches for the elbows of the shirt. The material has just enough stretch to allow for skin tight sleeves with decent range of motion.
There's a lot of additional finicky details, like everything is hand-hemmed since I wanted the double-sided Desert Robe fabric to remain double sided - I tugged the layers apart, folded them inward, and invisible stitched down the edges.
And all then after cutting the coat tails apart and hemming them, I sewed them back together again! with BIGGER thread! The Chiss species has a philosphy called the Red Flame - in the old EU, they wore red piping on their uniforms to remind them of the principles. So I used a thick embroidery thread for some detailing with in-world meaning.
You'll see another detail post once I finish up the added 3D printed armor for Celebration and C2E2. I can't wait to wear it again.