Solarfly Diagnostics and Windows 10
Hi Everyone!

Windows 10 has caused a lot of gamers quite a bit of frustration with their USB devices since its release. Lots of people run into general USB and Thrustmaster driver issues.  Below is a full set of things to make sure you've done and checked when you're getting frustrated and things aren't working out for you.  It's not always Windows 10, maybe a step was overlooked. I hope this helps!


Making Sure You've Done Things Right First


  1. Download my latest update from http://3dpipeline.net.


  2. Do your Thrustmaster devices show up under USB Game Devices tool in Windows? (You can run that by searching for it from the Start menu). If both devices show up, Throttle and Joystick, you're in good shape.


  3. Does your throttle lights come on after boot? eg. does the Throttle have power? If not, or if the devices are showing the ! problem indicator for the thrustmaster devices in device manager, see the section BELOW on Windows 10. Otherwise, go to the next step.


  4. Run TARGET Script and load my profile. Once it's running, check the USB Game Devices program again, you should now see one combined Thrustmaster device. Also, observe where your MFG Crosswinds (or other rudders) are in the list. Do you have a Razor Orbweaver gaming keyboard or some gaming mouse that pushes your rudders to device 3 or device 4? If so, you need to load another XML too.


  5. Is EAC flipped to ARM (up?) If so, your joystick will be unresponsive, because you're in HUD edit mode. Flip it down.


  6. Is the Throttle Boat Switch flipped forward or backward? If so, center it. If you don't, the behavior of the throttle may be in the wrong mode because coupled/decoupled has started inverted. It's important to center things between deaths and ship explosions and Quantum Travel.


  7. Is the Pinky Switch flipped Back? Set it to the middle.


  8. Load Star Citizen, Arena Commander, Free Flight.


  9. Press ~ key and type pp_rebindkeys and then hit enter.


  10. Now, pp_rebindkeys layout_solarfly_tm1. If your rudders are gaming Device ID 2, and your brand is not CH, you're done. If your brand is CH, and your rudders are device ID 2, pp_rebindkeys layout_solarfly_ch2 and you're done.


  11. If your rudders are on a different device, for MFG and Saitek, pp_rebindkeys layout_solarfly_rud3 or rud4. If your brand is CH, pp_rebindkeys layout_solarfly_ch3 or ch4.


Windows 10 Problems and Thrustmaster


I recently spent an evening with a Windows 10 user and figured out a few things.



  1. Go into device manager and look at the USB devices for your throttle and joystick. If there's a warning icon, and rebooting and unplugging and all that doesn't fix it, then

  2. Disable the low power management settings on your USB ports. This is under your USB Root Hubs or something like that (I'm on a Mac at work right now, going from memory). You can definitely google this one easily.

  3. Edit your power profile (type "power" into the search box in the run menu), and make sure USB doesn't sleep.

  4. Unplug thrustmaster stuff.

  5. Uninstall TARGET. That includes all drivers (should be just one Thrustmaster TARGET package in Control Panel > Remove Software)

  6. Reboot.

  7. Download new TARGET drivers if you haven't already (there was a new release this past May)

  8. Install new TARGET software. Plug in your thrustmaster devices directly into the PC, do not use a powered hub.

  9. Reboot.




This often clears it up.


I hate Windows 10. I've vehemently guarded my Windows 7 installs here at home. But with the upgrade expiring soon, who knows. Maybe I'll be forced to finally concede, too.

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